Among the trends that defined the latest FW25 fashion shows, the return of feathers to the runway stands out. A symbol of lightness, but also of opulence, evoking both nature and the realm of dreams and fantasy, feathers have once again captivated designers across the fashion system—not only as a material, but as a sign that expresses a desire to imagine elsewhere and, through fashion, fulfill the dreamlike desire to escape reality: from earth to sky. The latest appearance of this “birdscape” trend came with the announcement of Miley Cyrus’ upcoming visual album. On the cover of her latest music project, the artist wears a full archival Mugler look from the “Les Insectes” SS97 collection, composed of feathers and opalescent webs. In this historic runway show, the beauty look that completed the translucent dress included tufts of white feathers in place of eyebrows, almost reminiscent of an angelic creature. Additionally, in the music video for her single “Something Beautiful,” Cyrus wears a hooded coat entirely covered in green feathers, made especially for her by Casey Cadwallader, the outgoing creative director of Mugler.

Feathers also evoke the image of old-school divas. During the latest Dolce&Gabbana FW25 show, streetwear looks featuring cargo pants and military green parkas alternated with dresses adorned with fringe, feathers, and crystals: a contemporary reinterpretation of classic 1920s Charleston dresses, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of The Great Gatsby. Along similar lines, at Dsquared2, the Caten twins celebrated their 30-year fashion career with a show that honored the brand’s history. In what resembled their own version of “Studio 54,” they recreated the iconic feather naked dress worn by Cher at the 1974 Met Gala—originally designed by Bob Mackie—and presented it on Amelia Gray. Similarly, Elodie, channeling Italian variety show icons like Raffaella Carrà, Mina, and Dalidà, wore a Gucci outfit with a feather boa in a “deep red” hue on the Ariston stage. Feathers are also essential in burlesque performances, cabaret, and circus aesthetics. Think of the feathered and sequined headpieces and boas worn by Pamela Anderson in The Last Showgirl.